Alms giving and temple etiquette

What the alms round is

Every morning at sunrise, monks walk in a procession through the streets of Luang Prabang, accepting alms offered by local residents. The practice is called piṇḍapāta in Pali, the Buddhist monastic practice of an almsround to the laity to receive almsfood and other necessities. The protected old town includes villages where daily rituals such as the morning alms-giving ceremony persist.

Why it matters

Theravada Buddhism is the largest religion in Laos, practised by 66 percent of the population. Buddhist monks are highly respected and revered in Lao communities, and lay people earn merit by giving food to monks. Historically, most Lao men spent at least a short period in a temple. The alms round is therefore an everyday exchange between a community and its monks, and not an attraction staged for visitors. Wikipedia adds that alms are not guaranteed: a monk has no assurance of collecting enough food for the day, if any at all.

Watching from a distance

Wikivoyage's advice is to consider watching this old tradition from a distance instead of degrading it. In practice that means staying quiet, keeping your distance and never interrupting the line of monks. Cover your shoulders and knees as you would at a temple. If a camera is in your hand, stay on the far side of the street and do not step into the procession.

Taking part, if you choose

Wikivoyage notes that anyone who wishes to participate should prepare the food or fruit themselves. That keeps the offering a genuine gift. It also means that you should not buy offerings from sellers who set up to supply visitors. If you are unsure how to behave, watch the residents kneeling along the road and follow their lead, or simply look on from a distance. The alms round is early in the morning, so the evening before is best kept light.

Temples and dress

At the Royal Palace Museum, Wikivoyage lists a rule of no bare shoulders, midriffs or knees, and says a cloth can be rented at the locker room. It is a sensible standard for any temple or palace in Luang Prabang. Wat Xieng Thong, built in 1559 and 1560, is one of the most important Lao monasteries, and it is still a place of worship as well as a monument.

A performance is not a service

Buddha's Light, the evening stage show, is a performance of dance, music, drama, light and imagery on Buddhist themes. It is a cultural and spiritual performance and not a religious service, and no prior knowledge of Buddhism is required. That makes it a different kind of evening from the alms round, where the monks and residents are not performers. If a show leaves you curious about Buddhist practice, the alms round and the temples are where the living tradition can be seen, with the same respect.

Who this isn't for

This guide is not for anyone who wants a guarantee of a good photograph. The monks and residents are taking part in a religious practice, and their needs come first. If a close-up matters more to you than the occasion, the alms round is not the place. It is also not a guide to every temple rule in Luang Prabang, only a short summary of what published sources say, so follow any sign or instruction you meet on the day.

• Watch from a distance and stay quiet.
• Prepare any offering yourself.
• Cover shoulders and knees.
• Stay out of the line of monks.